How to install an after-market car stereo

>These instructions may seem daunting! If so, remember that StereoMan can do the installation for you. It usually costs $40 to have this work done. But if you want to do it yourself, here’s everything you need to know:

 

What’s an “after-market” stereo?

 

An “after-market” car stereo is one that you buy and install in your car after you’ve purchased the car. The stereo that came with the car when it was manufactured is known as an “OEM” stereo (“original equipment manufacturer”).

 

What brand should you buy, and where should you buy it?

 

There are lots of good after market stereos out there, but there’s also lots of crappy ones. StereoMan advises you to go with a well-known brand such as Pioneer, Kenwood, or Sony. You should spend at least $70 to get one of decent quality with minimal features.

 

There are lots of reputable online merchants you can buy from, or you can get your stereo at any “big box” store. Be careful when buying online to choose a seller who is authorized by the manufacturer, or else the warranty will not be valid. If you are unsure, you’d be better off buying from a local retailer. Or, you can buy a Pioneer stereo directly from StereoMan.

 

What other accessories are needed for the installation?

 

You’ll need two, maybe three, other items to complete your installation: a fit kit, a wiring adapter, and maybe an antenna adapter. These items can also be purchased online or at your local “big box” store – or from StereoMan! Some online merchants provide these items at no extra cost.

 

 

A fit kit is a plastic assembly that matches your car’s console to a standard after-market stereo. Fit kits are generally packaged in a plastic bag or blister pack, and each kit will be compatible with a range of vehicle years and models; e.g., 1998-2002 Honda Accord, or 1995-2008 Ford Ranger and Mazda pickups.

 

A wiring adapter will allow you to plug your after market stereo directly into your car’s wiring system. The wire colors on the adapter will exactly match the wires that come with your after market stereo, making the job of connecting the wires much easier and less prone to errors. Like the fit kit, you’ll find the wiring adapter in a plastic bag or blister pack, and a given adapter will be compatible with a range of vehicle years and models.

 

Virtually every after-market stereo has a standard antenna connection. An antenna adapter may be needed if your vehicle has a non-standard antenna connection. Almost any GM vehicle or VW has a non-standard connection. The GM antenna adapter is the one pictured here. Often the wiring adapter will come with one if it is called for. If you’re not sure, ask your retailer!

 

Each of these items will cost you about $10-$20 at your local “big box” store. You may find them for less online, but don’t forget to factor in the shipping cost!

 

Removal of the original stereo

 

 

The fit kit will come with a pamphlet that describes how to disassemble the car’s console and get the original stereo out. Some cars are very easy, some are not. It helps to have a wide, flat bladed tool such as a putty knife or stiff spatula to pry apart the pieces. You may also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver, or a socket wrench, as many OEM stereos are bolted into the car.

 

Wiring

 

Once you’ve got the old stereo out, the next step is wiring the new stereo’s wire harness to the wiring adapter. For this you will need a wire stripping tool and a roll of electrical tape. Strip about two inches of insulation from the end of each wire of the stereo’s wire harness that has a matching color wire in the wiring adapter. Do the same for each wire in the adapter that matches color with the harness. Wires that do not match color will not be used. For best results, fold these wires back and tape their ends.

 

Next, twist the ends of each pair of matching color wires together and cover them individually with tape. Some installers use other methods of connecting the wires, but StereoMan suggests this method because:

A) twisting the wires together provide much more connected surface area than crimp splices;

B) twisted connections aren’t brittle like solder connections, so they are not subject to breakage;

C) it’s fast and easy: and,

D) if you make a mistake, you can simply pull the wires apart and slide the tape off.

Once you’ve connected and taped each wire, plug the harness into the radio and the adapter into the car. Turn the key in the ignition to the “ACC” position and confirm that the stereo comes on and sound comes from all four speakers. Then, turn off the key, unplug the adapter from the stereo, grab the whole bundle of wires, and wrap a generous amount of tape around them at the point where the connections were made.

 

Installing the new stereo

 

Prepare the fit kit by following the instructions in the pamphlet that came with it that apply to your particular vehicle. You may need a pair of heavy shears, a pocket knife, or a box cutter to cut plastic tabs from the fit kit. Some kits also come with small machine screws to hold parts together.

Once the kit is ready, insert it into the hole in the console where the OEM radio used to be. There may be screws or bolts to hold it in place. If so, there will be corresponding holes for them in the fit kit.

 

The DIN cage

 

Your new stereo will come with a metal frame around it that is known as a “DIN cage”. You have to pry a release on either side of the DIN cage to get it off of the stereo and affix it to the fit kit. The stereo also comes with a pair of handy release tools for that purpose.

 

The cage will fit snugly into the fit kit. But before you snug it in, pull the wiring adapter and antenna wire through the cage. It’s easier to do that now than later! Once it’s in place, use a small screwdriver or similar tool (StereoMan uses a pair of curved hemostats) to pry down on the metal tabs around the perimeter of the cage. This will prevent the cage from slipping out or tilting from the weight of the stereo.

Your installation instructions may indicate that your car stereo will fit in what is called “ISO Mounting”. That means you don’t use the DIN cage at all, instead the new stereo bolts directly into the OEM mounting brackets.

 

There is no upside down. The din cage is perfectly symmetrical, either way, top and bottom, left and right. You can’t put it in wrong!

 

Getting the radio in

 

Finally, you’re ready to put the new radio in the dashboard! First, plug the wiring harness and antenna wire into the back of the stereo. Then you’ll have to finagle the wires into the console so the bulk of the wires is either above or below the stereo. There’s hardly ever enough room right behind it. This is the most frustrating part of the whole job! You may have to install and remove the radio from the DIN cage several times before you get it right. When you’ve got it right, the radio will slip all the way into the cage with just a little bit of pressure, and lock down to the tabs with a distinct “click”

 

The trim ring

 

Your new stereo came with a plastic ring around the face called a “trim ring”. This ring snaps right on, after you’ve got the radio into the DIN cage. it has four or six tabs that hold it in place. It should pry off pretty easily if you need to get the stereo back out. Hang on to those two release tools, just in case!

 

Congratulations! You’re done! You’ve read all the instructions. Now go for it!

 

newrule

16 Comments

  • By Katie G, January 1, 2017 @ 5:59 pm

    Hi,

    Im having some problems with installing my DIN cage into my console. It will keep pushing deeper into my console and will not stay put where it should be placed. You said that their is a screwdriver tool that is needed for this? Thank you so much for your help!
    -K.g

  • By StereoMan, January 8, 2017 @ 8:24 am

    Thanks for your inquiry! I don’t check my comments frequently hence the delay in response. As you might have found out from another source since contacting me, it is rare for an aftermarket stereo to fit properly into a vehicle’s console. That’s why there are “trim kits”, i.e. plastic frames designed specifically to fit perfectly into the car and perfectly accommodate the aftermarket stereo. If you want further information please contact me via email.

  • By Mandi, January 8, 2017 @ 4:26 pm

    I am having a bit of a problem trying to install a aftermarket radio in my 1992 c4 Corvette. I was just wondering if there was a way to use the factory radio harness. Meaning cut the harness off the old radio and connect it to the new radio, so I’m able to hook it back up. Because every adapter I have purchased does not work with my car.

  • By Henry K, January 18, 2017 @ 7:08 am

    Hi. My Citroen had an aftermarket jvc in it, that wasn’t working. When I bought the car it was ok but you had to detach the stereo when not in use, as it stayed live. I have replaced it now with a pioneer stereo, using a harness adapter. It works but is still constantly live. However, this new unit does not have any memory, so loses all settings when disconnected. Any advice? I’ve read that it’s something to do with the way Citroens are wired, as the oem unit requires a constant live?

  • By Dylan K, February 13, 2017 @ 8:39 pm

    Hello, the radio out of my 1991 dodge ram has been stolen and I’m trying to put another one in it. Problem is that the wiring harness on the truck has 7 seven prongs and my aftermarket radio has eight. What am i supposed to do, chop a prong off?

    Any info would be nice!
    thanks

  • By StereoMan, February 25, 2017 @ 2:14 pm

    Thanks for your inquiry! I don’t check my comments frequently hence the delay in response. As you might have found out from another source since contacting me, your corvette probably has the Bose radio in it, and in that system the tuner is separate from the HU. You’ll need to get the Bose amplifier harness and run it back behind the seats where the amp is located.

  • By StereoMan, February 25, 2017 @ 2:15 pm

    Thanks for your inquiry! I don’t check my comments frequently hence the delay in response. As you might have found out from another source since contacting me, you should try reversing the connections on the red and yellow leads, IOW connect the red wire from the stereo to the yellow wire in the harness, and the yellow wire from the radio to the red wire in the harness. That should do it!

  • By StereoMan, February 25, 2017 @ 2:16 pm

    Thanks for your inquiry! I don’t check my comments frequently hence the delay in response. As you might have found out from another source since contacting me, you need to get a wiring adapter for your vehicle. The eighth wire is the ground lead on that vehicle, which is a big sliver braid that bolts to the back of the factory stereo rather than plugging into it as part of the factory harness.

  • By Bad dog jeep, December 17, 2017 @ 3:27 am

    I have 2002 jeep grand Cherokee I put a new head unit in. Second one cause first one had bad usb port, As with both head units all the wiring does not let it slide into lock position. Suggest some duck butter to grease her up and slide it in? Man what pain. Any tricks? The only thing I can think of is just straight up hard wire it in.

  • By StereoMan, December 17, 2017 @ 5:13 pm

    Thanks for your inquiry! Tell me, what sort of hu are you installing? Is it a touch screen?

  • By Carrie, March 12, 2018 @ 11:51 am

    Hi I had a pioneer touch screen with xm radio installed. THe guy who did it said he had to run the micro phone out side by my rearview mirror, use magnetic antenna (he said he can’t use existing antenna, even though t is set up for XM radio, pandora and spotify already) and run USB and leave it sit in my glovebox because he couldn’t put it where chevy has their stuff already. That it is not compatible and he can not change it.Is this true or is he feeding me a line of BS.I would like my stereo installed so i don’t have to open my glove box to use USB port. when there is a USB port right in my dash.
    Thank you for your time.
    Carrie

  • By StereoMan, March 12, 2018 @ 10:08 pm

    What is the year and model of your chevy?

  • By Robert, March 17, 2018 @ 8:47 pm

    Hi their I have a problem with my car stereo….the wire of the stereo not match with the wire in my car

  • By StereoMan, March 18, 2018 @ 6:44 am

    Thanks for your question! This is not a problem with your car stereo, it is normal. Every after market stereo has the same wiring color scheme but factory wiring never, ever follows the standard color codes. You will need to purchase a wiring adapter that is specific to your car. Please re-read the section of the explanation above pertaining to “wiring adapter”.

  • By Alan, April 14, 2018 @ 5:41 pm

    Hi I’ve just brought a off the market stereo for my car but I have got a problem there isant eny wires cumin out of the stereo. Wot can i do please ?

  • By StereoMan, April 14, 2018 @ 7:09 pm

    Good question! Buying used aftermarket is a tricky business esp. if you don’t know much about car stereo. Every aftermarket stereo comes with its own wiring harness and though the wire color scheme is universal, the connection on the back of the stereo is not. So if you buy a stereo without a harness, you have to hunt for it, by make and model. If it’s a major brand, like Pioneer or Alpine, good chance you’ll find one. Otherwise, caveat emptor: let the buyer beware!

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